The soil didn't change — the container did
Two plants, same bag of potting mix, same watering schedule — and one thrives while the other develops soggy, waterlogged roots. The soil itself isn't the variable that changed. The container is, and the mechanics of how a pot's size, shape, and material interact with growing medium explain a huge share of the "my soil stays too wet" or "my soil dries out too fast" problems that get blamed entirely on the mix itself.
Why pot size changes how the exact same soil behaves
Water in a container doesn't drain evenly through the entire depth of soil — it moves downward and pools at the bottom of the pot regardless of how well-draining the mix is, creating what's sometimes called a "perched water table": a saturated zone at the base that persists even in soil marketed as fast-draining. In a shallow, wide container, that saturated zone occupies a much larger proportion of the total root area than in a tall, narrow container holding the same volume of mix, because the saturated layer's height stays roughly constant regardless of pot shape while the proportion of roots sitting inside it changes dramatically. The identical bag of potting mix, poured into a shallow bowl-shaped pot versus a tall narrow one, produces genuinely different root-zone moisture conditions, even with identical watering.
Why container material matters as much as container shape
Terracotta is porous and allows moisture to evaporate through the pot walls themselves, which measurably speeds up drying compared to the same soil in a glazed ceramic or plastic pot, where the walls are essentially sealed and all moisture loss happens through the soil surface and drainage holes alone. A gardener who waters a terracotta pot and a plastic pot on the identical schedule, using the identical mix, is very often creating a wetter root environment in the plastic pot without realizing the container material is doing a meaningful share of that work, independent of the soil itself.
Why drainage holes don't fully solve this on their own
A drainage hole lets excess water exit the bottom of a pot, but it doesn't eliminate the perched water table sitting just above it — some saturated zone persists directly above the drainage layer regardless of how many holes exist, because water held by capillary action in fine-textured soil doesn't fully drain out through gravity alone until the soil above it has released enough water to break that capillary hold. This is why adding more drainage holes to a badly draining pot helps, but often doesn't fully solve a moisture problem on its own, if the underlying issue is really about the depth-to-saturation ratio created by the pot's proportions.
Where compaction fits into this picture
Potting mix compacts over time as it's watered repeatedly and as organic components in it break down, and compaction reduces the actual pore space available for both air and water movement through the medium. A mix that drained well when freshly potted can become measurably worse at draining a year later, in the exact same container, purely because the physical structure of the mix itself has collapsed — smaller particles settling into the gaps that used to allow water to move through freely. This is a separate mechanism from the container-shape issue above, but the two frequently compound each other: a shallow pot with a large perched-water-table proportion, combined with a mix that's compacted over a growing season, produces a moisture problem considerably worse than either factor would cause on its own.
What this means for diagnosing an actual soggy-soil problem
Blaming a bag of potting mix for consistently staying too wet skips past two variables that are often doing more of the actual work: the specific container's shape and proportions, and how long the current mix has been in place without being refreshed or aerated. The same soil, repotted into a taller, narrower container, or refreshed after a season of compaction, frequently solves a moisture problem that looked like it required switching to an entirely different soil type.
The same potting mix behaves differently depending on the container it's in — shape, depth, and material all change how much of the root zone sits inside the persistent saturated layer at the bottom of any pot. A soggy-soil problem is often a container and compaction issue wearing a "wrong soil" disguise.